TCHADAR 2005
The vital link
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TCHADAR 2005 The vital link
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Before expedition, read more...
Indalo Aventure will take you onto the frozen river called the « Tchadar », situated in the Indian Himalayas, near Zanskar in the region of Ladakh. A magic voyage between two worlds – that of rock and that of ice – in the gorges of the river Zanskar.In January and February the river is partially frozen and becomes, for a few weeks, the only link between the valleys blocked by snow and Leh, the capital of Ladakh. Each step takes on a new importance – one is in tune with Nature and with oneself. Meeting the Zanskaris takes on a new dimension…
At night, the fire crackles in the caves, everyone sits with hands held out towards the warmth, faces are lit by the flames, and the first contact can really begin...
This adventure will first lead us to the home of the nunnery of Cullican, for an initial aid-project to help the nuns; then on, via the frozen river, to the monastery and village of Lingshed, perched at an altitude of over 4000 metres , for a second humanitarian project and for an exchange- programme involving the children of primary-class 5 in Fraiture (Belgium) and the children of the school in Lingshed.
A simple life, in which only essential values have worth: those of welcome and the pleasure of exchanging a smile with the travellers one meets on the « Khado Sanglam », the trail of the elves, those who are taught by Buddhism and who aspire to serenity.
This adventure will allow us to discover the private lives of the Zanskaris in winter.
The logo of our expedition represents AMITHABA: the Buddha of infinite light, who personifies the energy of the Lotus that transforms passion into spiritual purity. He is the lord of the west and symbolizes wisdom and meditation. He is represented sitting in the lotus position, holding a begging-bowl.
Our expedition carries with it two important humanitarian projects...
Why not come with us on this extraordinary journey...
« The path is the goal »
Kuna Puta .
« A journey having no equal anywhere in the world... »
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DAY 01 - Wednesday 26 January
Brussels (Belgium) – New-Delhi (India)
Waking up at 2 a.m. is a real problem for some! Didier and Nicolas drove us to Zaventem. We managed to get an agreement with Alitalia for the additional 40 kg of children clothes to take to Ladakh.After an hour and a half to Milan, there was another 6135 km and 7 hours to get to New Delhi.At the arrival at the airport we cannot find our agent.After an hour he finally finds us thanks to our sweat-shirts with the expedition logo. After another hour - driving in this chaotic traffic, we arrive, alive, at the Tibetan camp.
I can not give you the address, we never knew where we were…!
« Compassion is not religious business, it is human business, it is not luxury, it is essential for our own peace and mental stability, it is essential for human survival.»
Dalaï Lama
The participants :
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Roland GHIGNY , 39, married, 2 eleven-year-old children (Elénie and Corentin), initiator of the project and expedition leader. "At the end of the day, I wonder if one of the most important points in our journey was the moment when we decide to throw the plan out of the window. In giving up our grids and our reference systems, we also abandon our preconceptions which, no doubt, leaves us better prepared to perceive the secret charm of each new destination, and to keep in mind that each of us is a part of the History on humanity. The important thing is that we never forget that our most precious memories are those that remind us of the true riches of our lives, and the importance of maintaining the ties that bind us one to another…" |
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Thibaut CHARLIER , 31, married, 2 children (Louise, 2 and Arthur 5 months), computer specialist responsible for the Rizong project and for sending mails and pictures during the expedition.A magic journey to meet others, oneself and Nature.This expedition offered me a break from the high-speed life I am living and allowed me to discover a little part of our planet, the Ladakh.The Ladakh is not only cold or beautiful, it is mostly people who live a hard life with laughter and happiness.I thank Roland for the preparation, for his advices and his friendship.Thank you also to Laurence my wife who allows me to live this adventure. |
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Isabelle WATELET , 36, responsible for the Lingshed projects. This is what I remember from this journey back in time: The pleasure of walking in the heart of the mountains where we can read the genesis of the massif.The admiration for these children who cheerfully brave the cold and the whims of the river to go to school.The help of the porters and the Ladakhi people met on the Tchadar.The children love singing. I am really happy to listen to them, to dance with them and to teach them nursery rhyme from home.I don't feel like I went on an expedition, but rather went to visit some friends.A most warm welcome which I will not forget.I will go back - for sure. |
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Thierry BLANCHART , 27, single, the baby of the expedition. What an experience! This is the kind of journey that is not easy to convey in words – the atmosphere in Ladakh and the contact with the local people are very special. This is a journey that has to be lived, each day carried its own emotional charge (human or physical).I will never forget the encounters with the people who walk the river, not for pleasure, but because they have to, the breathtaking scenery, nights in a tent, the rocks, altitude sickness, the sometimes strange reactions of the local people, Leh airport with no planes… Then the 10 days we shared with our porters, our cook and our guide, the mutual support – we all knew that we were all in the same boat, the aim being to get to journey's end in one piece (and more or less dry). Some parts of the journey were really “sporty” (that became the motto of the expedition) and, when the ice collapsed under my feet, and I fell into water up to my waist! – that is a moment I will remember for the rest of my life.I want to thank my fellow travelers, who shared the road (or, rather, track, ice, water, rock) with me, Roland for the perfect organization of the expedition, Didier who did a fabulous job with the website, all the people who followed our adventure, and encouraged us from near and far and, of course, the wonderful people that we met when we arrived who, with a simple smile, allow us to look at the world and the way we live in a different manner. Julley. |
India is at the centre of the Asian continent and constitutes...read more...
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DAY 02 - Thursday 27 January
| New-Delhi (Inde) – Leh (Inde) |  |
After a few hours rest, we go back to the airport, the national section this time. Our flight is announced, but first we have to go on the tarmac to indicate which is our luggage. The flight is at around 06.00h. Flying over the mountains is absolutely magnificent – we get a glimpse of the Karakorum. The huge Siachen glacier, the north of Nubra and Ladakh are superb. The plane flies in a circle almost directly above the monastery at Spituk and, after a flight of 1.15h, we land on a fairly short runway, requiring a certain dexterity on the part of the pilot.
Here we are in the capital of Ladakh, at an altitude of 3500m.
The temperature difference between Leh and New-Delhi is 40 degrees!!!
When we arrive, the temperature is -14°C.
Our heads are spinning, due to lack of oxygen - the smallest effort leaves us short of breath.
We were greeted at the airport by the children - the future occupants of the boarding-school sponsored by (amongst others) TDF - who offered us a Katak (scarf) to welcome us. We invite them to our hotel LASERMO (pic. 1 & 2) with Lobsang Dolma, who is taking care of them (pic. 3 to 5 ) .
The children have received the gifts and letters from their sponsors. In return, they offer their drawings.
Isabelle meets little Stanzin Rigdol who she sponsors. Rigdol is the youngest (pic. 6 ).
In the afternoon, we go with Ani Palmo into a Ladakhi shop to buy clothes for the nuns of the Cullican monastery. (pic. 7)
Thierry finds a goncha, a traditional Ladakhi coat, which he will wear during the whole trip.
Our resident computer expert has sent us these photos (braving the cold, still at -14°...) from the terrace of our lodge, which has all "mod-cons"
(modern conveniences) - bedrooms at 5°... no running water... but with a T.V . ( pic. 8 and 9 ) .
« The ability to put oneself in the place of others and to imagine how one would react in their situation is very useful if one wishes to learn to love someone. »
Dalaï Lama
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Leh is the capital of and the biggest town in Ladakh ...Read more...
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DAY 03 - Friday 28 January
| Leh - Rizong |  |
We learned this morning that we have been very lucky with the plane from Delhi to Leh, as it was the only day this week that that a landing has been possible, due to bad weather.We went to the monastery of Ridzong this morning (pic. 10) on the way we stop for a drink, a black tea or a hot milk, the only available drinks for the next 2 weeks (pic. 11 & 12) …..! The state of the road made the trip very difficult. Along the road some funny signs (pic. 13) . One has to climb the valley adjacent to Wulletokpo for 5 kms, following the stream of the same name, to find the monastery of Rizong.It is hidden at the bottom of a rocky basin, and is still fully functioning. The buildings are whitened with lime, and serve as lodgings.The monastery was founded recently, in the 19th century, by a monk from Saspol – Tsulrim Nyima, It is currently home to around 50 monks of the Gelupka order, and is directed by the Sras Rinpoche. The final 300m of the climb on foot is difficult.We are not yet acclimatised (pic. 14 & 15).
The monks welcomed us warmly. The monk Thupstan Dorjay Mymypa (pic. 16) opens for us the doors of an old temple and we discover the logo of the expedition (pic. 17).The monk allows us to film and take pictures. He asks me to take a picture of a wall whose painting has started to disappear because of infiltration of water.Out on the roof, we take polaroid pictures of the monks and novices, who are very happy to receive their pictures (pic 18 & 19).An old monk removes his ”holy” socks - he doesn't have shoes - before his photo is taken (pic 20).From there we are invited into the kitchen for the traditional tea with yak-butter.... you ought to try it ! The novices are having their lunch in the kitchen (pic 23 ).Tea with butter is an inherent part of all ceremonies. Monks drink up to 40 cups a day! It is rich in fat, and is ideal for warming oneself up.I wish I could have tried it but someone was needed to film and take pictures (Roland). It 's always the same people who sacrifice themselves!!! (pic 24 to 26). Dorjay, our guide, shows us how to proceed: place a little bit of flour in the hand, put it in the mouth and then drink some tea. I try. The flour sticks all over my mouth. Not easy to remove without putting ones fingers in one's mouth!"After the monastery, we stopped at the nunnery of Cullican (pic 27) , It is situated 75 km to the West of Leh, and 2 km before Rizong, surrounded by a forest of apricot trees.Jean-Claude and Sylvana had taken a photo last summer - Roland gave a copy of it to one of the nuns (pic 28).Thibaut dropped-off some of the clothes purchased the day before (pic 29 & 30).
On our way back to Leh, road-safety warning signs have been placed by the road construction company. Here are some examples:
"After whisky driving risky"
In front of a ravine, the panel says: "Drive not fly"
"Self Control"
"Drive fast and test our recovery"
"Careful today, alive tomorrow" (pic 31)
Back in Leh, we spent the evening with Ani Palmo and the nuns in their temple. Together, we watched the film made last year by Jean-Claude and Sylvana (Autres Regards). We had some very good laughs with the nuns. It was a memorable evening. (pic 32)
« There is no need for temples;no need for complicated philosophy. Our own brain, our own heart is our temple.»
Dalaï Lama
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On the right bank of the Indus...read more...
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DAY 04 - Saturday 29 January
| Leh - Thiksey |  |
We left for the monastery (gompa) at Thiksey (alt. 3400m, on the right bank of the Indus, 14 miles from Leh) very early in the morning.
Going there before we leave for the Tchadar is a “must”.This monastery is especially famous, because it is extremely photogenic.It was built 600 years ago on the summit of a rocky hill, overlooking the valley. It comprises 12 levels. The gompa has 10 temples below the monastery itself. The chapels and the “houses” are situated at the base of the hill.Approximately 100 monks of the “Gelupka” sect (“the virtuous ones” or “the yellow bonnets”) live there.
On entering the main courtyard, one discovers the new gompa, inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 1980, on one's right. Within is a 15m high statue of Buddha, which is the biggest Buddha in Ladakh, and which took 4 years to build. It is sculpted in clay, painted gold, and is filled with Kandshur and Tandshur – books of religious texts relating to Buddhism. The statue was made entirely by local craftsmen, and represents Maitreya (“compassion” in Sanskrit) – the Buddha of the future (pic 39) .
In a prior incarnation, Bhudda prophesied that the world will, one day, be subjected to such chaos that the future Buddha will teach compassion to mankind.Directly above the temple, a small, narrow room is used as a classroom for the boys, where the lamas teach children from the age of 7. Later, some of the children will be chosen to become lamas.Tuition fees are paid partly by their families.
Traditionally, Ladakhi families send one son to the priesthood, but this practice is slowly disappearing.They take priestly orders at the age of 20 and must respect 235 precepts. From the highest point of the roof of the temple, the view is beautiful (pic. 37 & 38). Last few pictures of the monastery (pic. 40 & 41) .
This afternoon, we traverse Choklamsar (the Tibetan-refugee camp) and, in the company of Lobzang Dolma, treasurer of the Lingshed project, we visit the piece of land where the boarding school for the children of Lingshed is to be built (pic 42). Then we were invited to meet the children again and have dinner together.They had prepared a little presentation.Tsering Lanzes, sponsored by Dario and Dominique, is proud to show her new school notebooks, offered by Thibaut (pic 43).Isabelle showed the drawings from the children of Fraiture (Belgium) and played their songs thanks to a little CD player. A big success.The hospitality of the Ladakhi family is wonderful (pic. 44 & 45).Later in the afternoon, Isabelle and Thibaut also each bought a goncha!!
In the evening, we answer the mails, thinking of Didou who is managing everything from Belgium (pic 46).
«True happiness depends on no individual, no tangible object. It only depends on ourselves».
Dalaï Lama
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On the highest point of the roof of the temple of Lamukhang ...Read more...
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DAY 05 - Sunday 29 January
| Leh – Chilling |  |
Today we go to Chilling. The start of a great adventure!
We first drive along the Indus river (pic 47 & 48).The road ( if we can call this a road !) snakes on the face of the mountain. We will encounter a few surprises on those last 29km to the Zanskar river…We saw a truck fallen 200 meters down the cliff into the river (pic 49 & 50).The guide told us it happened 4 weeks ago…!
Chiling was founded at the end of the 16th century by Nepalese craftsmen, and today it is home to 8 families.We are welcomed by our porters and we all receive a katak (pic. 51) with the traditional Black Tea and Hot Milk!! (pic 54).We offer to each porter a picture of the Dalaï Lama and a polaroid picture of themselves.Our guide Dorjay Tsetan is smiling to the start of the great adventure… (pic 52).Thibaut is calling Europe to say everything is ok (pic 51).In the afternoon, we visit the village of Chilling (a few houses spread here and there). It is the only village in Ladakh where men work with non-ferrous metals: copper, silver , pewter. They make a whole range of kitchen utensils - ladles, bowls, spoons, tchang-pots – as well as religious objects – offerings-bowls, telescopic trumpets, bells, etc.
We meet the craftsmen and buy a few tea spoons and tsampa spoons… you never know, it might be useful…We go and see the trolley that goes from one side of the Zanskar to the other side during the summer. We can't use it because the rope is stuck into the ice of the river.In the evening walking away from the camp we meet some children sliding down a little frozen river… (pic. 56).The camp is set up, we can spend our first under canvas.
Tomorrow is the start on the Tchadar…the great adventure.
« Feeling happy or sad rarely depends on our situation in absolute terms, but rather on our perception of that situation and our ability to be satisfied with what we have ».
Dalaï Lama
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The Ladakh, « land of mountain passes » in Tibetan, covers 97 782 km2...Read More...
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DAY 06 - Monday 31 January
| Chilling – TILAT-SUMDO |  |
We left Chilling around 9.30am. A bit late, but the porters had to share all the loads and this was done by a lottery (pic. 57 & 58)Thibaut and Roland have to take the GPS points of each cave and any important place for a Swiss cartographer.
Every 2 or 3 days, they call François Zaleski in Belgium for the RTBF radio, to tell how the expedition is going on.
After 30 minutes walking, we descend onto the Zanskar (pic.59) called « Tchadar » or « Chadar ». This word designates both the river Zanskar, in its frozen state, and the journey along it.A Chadar Pa « he of the Chadar », is one who has travelled this « final link » - each of whom, during his first such trip, is “baptised“. For the Kashmiri, Tchadar means « white veil » .Another name often used is Khado Sanglam, or “the Dakini trail”, which means “the fairie's trail”.
Some call it “the shadow river”…We set off on a 100km round-trip on the frozen river.The surface of the river Zanskar freezes once a year, in January and February.For the Zanskaris, the trip is ‘normal', because they have no other choice.It is a « gift of the cold », and the only possibility they have of getting to Ladakh.For us, it's a rare and totally exceptional trek – and a major sporting achievement, to boot ! The temperature can go as low as 30°C below zero.
Furthermore, we are travelling “backwards” in relation to the Zanskaris.The river is beautiful. Sometimes the running water in the middle disappears under the ice to reappear somewhere further away. A nice sun started to melt the ice.One of our worries was being forced to climb the rock face,... and we had a lot of climbing!
Since the beginning, Roland has been telling us to take our rubber boots with us. Well, he was right, we had between 20 and 35 cm of water to cross for about 20 meters.Some porters preferred to cross barefoot in the freezing water, rather than using our super rubber boots (pic. 60 to 62).The weather is beautiful, sunny and even warm. Especially when we have to make an effort to climb! I had to remove my long wooly skirt and my big jumper because I was so warm! Sometimes I wish I could reach the shadow quickly!!! But as soon as I stop, I get quickly cold." (Isabelle)
The effort is rewarded by dream landscapes.We arrive at the camp Tilat Sumdo around 3pm. We are 2 hours behind schedule. The emails manage to get through, but not the pictures (pic 63).Tundup, our assistant cook, prepares the dinner.In these conditions which are not at all easy, we have eaten really well (pic. 64). We eat even better than in the hotel!!!
«Food without salt is like work without joy.»
Ladakhi Proverb
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The Tchadar is «the flattest high-peak trek in the world»... Read More...
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DAY 07 - Tuesday 01 February
TILAT-SUMDO – HOTONG BAO
During the crossing, we learn ice craft, the skill of advancing by sliding on the ice, softly and without expending unnecessary energy – one's feet almost never lose contact with the ice. Isabelle got the hang of it straight away!
We are equipped with telescopic sticks – but some of us (isn't that right, Isabelle?) prefer sticks made from local rosewood, which also serve as “sonic probes”. One can tell from the noise made by the wood striking the ice if the ice is solid! One really learns to « read » the ice, at two levels – visual and audible. The duller the sound, the thicker the ice - the hollow «bongs» in certain places impose caution – either move forward quickly or, in some cases, turn around !
The one word no-one wants to hear is «Sopo» … «bad».
On the other hand, «Demo» is good and «Ma demo», very good!
In order to be able to film, one needs to trust the thickness of the ice!!! (pic 66) .
The day is getting harder and harder because of the more and more difficult climbing on the rock.
Thankfully the mutual support is excellent and everyone is giving a helping hand (pic.67 & 68) .
Some passages are quite delicate, whether on the ice or on the rock (pic. 69 & 70).
The landscape, the sun, the river : the whole is pure beauty (pic. 72 and 73).
In a cave called Bakula, an hermit lived in utter destitution (pic. 71).
The quality of the ice can change very quickly and over small distances, due to the action of the sun, the current or underground springs that feed the river. Cloud-cover plays a role in the reheating of the canyon, and makes the ice swell. When there is a lot of sunshine on the upper part of the canyon the snow melts, which causes the river-level to rise. This results in some superb landscape ( pic. 74) .
Some of our porters have sledges to pull their load on the ice (pic 75) .
Today we get a very nice surprise : we saw the footsteps of the snow leopard ( pic. 76 and 77) . He inhabits the high mountains of Central Asia and, within India, is found along the northern border, in Arunachal Pradesh, Sikkim, Uttar Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir. High in the mountains, this solitary animal hunts goats, ibex, blue sheep and shapu by following them up and down the slopes in their seasonal migration. During the winter, snow leopards stalk the lower mountains, often feeding on domestic stock. Observations indicate that this animal hunts in the early morning and late afternoons. Despite the heavy toll taken by poachers, the population of the snow leopard in Ladakh is estimated to be roughly 200. The main enemy is, undoubtedly, man. The animal is hunted by the locals for its valuable pelt and also to protect livestock. If this trend continues, it is doubtful whether the snow leopard will survive, except in a few isolated areas or in captivity.
"Today I carried Thierry's rucksack!! He is walking very slowly. Probably not acclimatised yet. I found the walk quite easy, but the boys find it tough…" (Isabelle)
We set up camp around 5pm in Hotong Bao. We nearly caught up the delay from the day before. The fatigue is there and a good dinner, prepared by « Chopo », our cook, is a great comfort (pic. 78) . As every evening, the hurricane lamp has some difficulties to burn…however the tent never caught on fire!! (pic. 79)
«For those who may not find happiness to exercise religious faith, it's okay to remain a radical atheist. It's absolutely an individual right, but the important thing is with a compassionate heart -- then no problem.»
Dalaï Lama
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By Marianne Chaud, Nicolas Hulot's colleague from “Ushuaia Nature”...Read More...
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DAY 08 - Wednesday 02 February
HOTONG BAO – Nyrakpulu.
While we were having lunch on the rocks we saw a father and his 8-year-old son passing by on the river. The boy, Nawang Tseta, is going to school in Leh. It is his first time on the Tchadar. We invite them to have lunch with us (pic 80 to 82) .
We are here on an expedition, but for them their journey is vital….That is the big difference !
The walk is difficult. We often have to climb on the rocks. When we walk on cracked ice, the porters tell us to hurry because it can break…the ice become thinner and thinner. Once I went through the ice but had the reflex to throw myself to the side, lying on the ice to spread the weight.
The ice is very slippery in places and Thierry often falls.The porters with sledges sometimes have to lie down and crawl on the ice when the latter is too thin (pic 83) .The risk is not too high, at worse we fall into 30 cm of water, but in view of the cold temperature, we don't really fancy it!
As ever, the difficult times are quickly forgotten thanks to the beauty of the scenery and the good mood of the porters. When you do the Chadar for the first time you receive a leaf from a tree bending over the river, called choupa (pic 84) .We are very lucky with the weather.
The sun, the contrasting blue/black of the river, the ice and the snow are superb (pic 85 & 86).
The river suddenly disappears under the ice and locks the air under the ice (pic 90) .We arrived near the village of Nierak, further up the canyon.
There exists a story, or legend, relating to this village… «In the village of Nierak, there was never enough water to irrigate the fields.
One day, a king who was travelling to Ladakh asked a hermit to help the village.The hermit gave the king two gods in a wicker basket. He made the king promise that he would never look inside.
However, the king only kept his promise as far as the edge of the village.One of the gods went and hid in a cave.Only one god, therefore, was taken to the village.
Alone, she was incapable of irrigating all the fields». The king's impatience is the reason why Nierak still lacks an adequate water-supply.
We are fascinated by the beauty of the cascade, immortalised by the pictures of Olivier Föllmi ( pic 87 to 92) .
We walked for 8 hours…the weather has changed. It is now freezing cold and windy. It is -20°C during the night. The tents are very small. When we wake up in the morning, the sleeping bag is completely frozen.
After the meal, Thibaut, Thierry and I decided to sleep in a little mill, a little away from the camp (pic 93&t 94)
«Our prime purpose in this life is to help others. And if you can't help them, at least don't hurt them.»
Dalaï Lama
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Westerners should respect local culture and clothing ...Read more...
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DAY 09 - Thursday 03 February
Nyarakpulu – Lingshed.
After an hour and a half on the Tchadar, we arrived at a little river descending from Lingshed. A big tent is installed during the winter, where we can have a cup of tea. We are not staying very long because the ascent to Lingshed is going to be strenuous.
On the rock face are lots of signatures, and our guide writes his own with a piece of burned wood (pic 95) .We have been walking at 3300m for 3 days, Lingshed is at 4000m.
Ready for 700m uphill!
The lunch break is very welcome (pic 96) .The scenery is changing, we now see trees and bushes spread here and there. !!! We can see the first house of the village and we are welcomed by a first child (pic 98) . The mother of Isabelle's goddaughter is offering a yellow katak and the whole village is there to welcome us (pic 99 & 100) .More than a hundred hands to shake!!! And always a 'Julley' for each person.
Some are asking « How are you ? » or saying « Good afternoon! ».
Quite exhausting at this altitude!!!
In winter, the only way into Lingshed, from the outside world, is via the Tchadar.Lingshed (or Lingshet ) is a village at an altitude of 4000m. It is in the area of Trans-Senge-la, which includes 7 other villages: Dipling, Skumpata, Gongma, Kartse, Yulchung, Neraks and Zingchan. All these villages are only accessible on foot and following several days walking.In the summer, it takes 3 days to reach Lingshed from Phanjila – the last village accessible by road, a day's bus-journey from Leh.
About 1100 people live in Lingshed – they are mostly farmers. They grow barley, wheat and peas. They also raise yaks, dzos (a cross between a cow and a yak) and goats. They use the milk to make butter and cheese, the skins and wool to make clothes, the meat for food and the droppings as cooking-fuel.Each house has a flat terrace on the roof, where people work in the sunlight – they weave wool, make and repair utensils, clothes and shoes.Each house has received a solar panel from the Indian government – enough to drive one or two lights during the long winter evenings.
The house where we are staying is the one from Tashi Wangdup (pic 101 ).Sonam, the son of the house and his little sister are intrigued by all Thibaut's electronic material (pic 102).Another intrigued child (pic 103) .The heating system in our room is the « Donkey Dung »! (pic 104)
«If we become violent, we will have nothing left to defend.»
Dalaï Lama
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The monastery (Lingshed gompa), whose real name is «Kumbum”...Read more...
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DAY 10 - Friday 04 February
Lingshed – Lingshed.
At 10 am, we all go to the ”Solar School” with the children (photo 105) .
They go to school from 10 am to 4 pm with a break from 1 pm to 2 pm, from Monday to Saturday included, winter and summer alike.
In 1995, an association in Austria, "The Friends of Lingshed", employs 2 private teachers to give lesson to 30 children…outdoors. Four years later, with the cooperation of the villagers, they can start the building of the new school.
During the winter, the villagers pull about 200 big wooden beams on the frozen Zanskar river - the same river on which we walked to get here - then, they carry the beams on their shoulders up to Lingshed.
Four months later, in summer 2000, the construction of the school is completed.
It is called the "Solar School". It is built in a traditional manner with mud. It also has solar panels and all the rooms are south facing so as to provide warm classrooms during the winter. Some private rooms are built for the teachers so that they can stay on the premises. The school has a green house and toilets. In 2001, the school is extended, two solar panel systems are added, the teachers' quarters and the playground are improved, and a wooden floor is installed. All this is done with the agreement and active participation of the villagers.
Since then the school has become an example for the whole region.
In 2002, the government authorities build a second school and add a boarding school near the solar school. 100 children are now attending the school. There is also an Adult Education program, as the majority of the population is illiterate.
We attend the classes and the children are happy to see their pictures on the LCD screen of the digital camera. They learn English, Hindi, Bodhik and mathematics and sciences (pics 106 to 109).
We were touched by this little girl, Stanzin Eshey, from Tsartsar, who lived here for 11 months a year (pic 107 ). She only goes back once a year to her village to see her parents.
The head of the association in Austria is Greta Kostka, who we met in Leh.The Ladakhi coordinator is Sonam Dorje who we met in Brussels before leaving. In Leh, Greta gave us some letters for the teachers in Lingshed.
If you wish further information about the association "The friends of Lingshed" and the Solar School, have a look at their website www.solarschule.org
The children have prepared a fantastic program, with songs, music and dances. There are moments that are difficult to describe... (pic 110 to 112).
At the end of the program Isabelle hands them the drawings, the handicrafts, the audio tape and the warm clothes offered by the pupils of the school in Fraiture (in Belgian Condroz). Their work represents their hobbies, their family, the winter and life in Belgium.
She receives in return the drawings from the children of Lingshed, and all the songs and dances are already captured in her camera.
She offers a huge inflatable globe which made a big impression !!! (pic 113 & 114)
We go up to the monestary (Lingshed gompa ) whose real name is «Kumbum” (pic 115) . It was founded in the 10th century. Legend has it that a burning stone indicated a holy place to a hermit. This is an important spiritual centre for Tibetan Buddhism - the only one in the area. It is part of Ngari rinpoche, that is to say Likir, and its «loyalty» is, therefore, to the «Gelukpa», the «Virtuous Ones» ( or “Yellow Bonnets”). (pic 117) .
I would like to find the novices who are on the Trek Magazine n°50. But they are in the South of India. However, their friends recognize them and would like to have their picture taken with the review (pic 121) .
This encounter with the young monks is a moment of pure happiness …(pic 116 to 125)
Back to our host house, the cultural group has prepared another program of songs and dances. There are about 200 people on the roof of the house…I wonder if the seismic rules have been respected??...Anyway the house held good!
Traditional man's clothing is a goncha , a thick long woollen robe fastened at the neck, under the armpit and tied at the waist with a colourful sash known as a skerag . The women wear a similar robe called the kuntop but on their backs they have colourful shawls. Women (and older men) wear as an everyday hat, the gonda, a type of high hat with protruding elf-like ear flaps. For festivals, women wear an attractive headgear called a perak (photo 128) , made of black lamb skin studded with semi-precious turquoise stones and carnelians, covering the head like a cobra's hood and tapering to a thin tail reaching down the back. The perak 's sides have woollen earmuffs, because, as legend has it, an early queen suffered from earache and needed protection from the cold.
For ceremonial purposes, they wear colourful robes in silk and brocade.
Ceremonial and public events are accompanied by the characteristic music of 'Surna' and 'Daman' (oboe and drum), originally introduced into Ladakh from Muslim Baltistan, but now played only by Buddhist musicians known as "Mons".
Of the secular culture, the most important element is the rich oral literature of songs and poems for every occasion, as well as local versions of the "Kesar Saga", the Tibetan national epic.
People of this region are deeply involved in music, dance and drama which embody religious fervour. Ladakhi songs and dances are simple in thought, content and performance. Ladakhi dances reveal the simple and noble nature of the Ladakhi people. But our cook, «Chopo» decides otherwise which is amusing the children very much (pic 127 & 130)
"The father of Ridgol, has given me a bottle for her. I think it's yogourt. And he gave 5 little tsampa bread to me for the road. I'm eating one of them and it's delicious. It's a bit like the bread Ibake at home" (Isabelle)
« Education is much more than a matter of imparting the knowledge and skills by which narrow goals are achieved. It is also about opening the child's eyes to the needs and rights of others.»
Dalaï Lama
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DAY 11 - Saturday 05 February
Lingshed – Nyarakpulu
We walk down, back on the river. We spend 2 wonderful days in Lingshed. The weather is getting worse and the snow is falling continuously.
On the Tchadar , we meet a family who ask us to help the daughter. She has some blisters and we take care of her at the camp. At this moment, I thought about all the doctors and nurses from MSF who travel around the world to help people with very few means…
The little girl is Lobsang Choskit and we met her a few days later in Leh, she was doing a lot better ( photos 131 et 132 )
« This morning I join the fastest group of our porters. It's the first time I have to make an effort to follow. I'm quite happy when we stop for lunch! The rest of the group arrived an hour and a half later. » (Isabelle)
« In the practice of tolerance, one's enemy is the best teacher. »
Dalaï Lama
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Tibetan medicine i s a traditional system of treatment that has been used for over 2500 years...Read more...
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DAY 12 - Sunday 06 February
Nyarakpulu – DEEPYOKMA.
We pass by the « Chupa » tree, this time we are walking on the stones above the tree because the river is thawing (pic 133) .
The walks in the freezing water are more and more frequent (pic 134) .
We arrive at the camp at Deepyokma. We are now sleeping in the dinner tent which has been enlarged (pic 135 & 136).
THANKS:
This expedition has been realised not only with the efforts of its members, but also with the help and the support of many people…our warmest thanks to :
our families
Patricia Van Malderen who has supported me (Roland) for many years, both as my wife and as my precious assistant in setting video film and drawing the expedition logos
Didier Bruynbroeck for the internet website and his total devotion
Marianne Chaud, who has authorised our publishing one of her articles.
Marianne participated in a TV program about Ladakh, with Nicolas Hulot, for “Ushuaïa Nature”
Serge Michaux for his contribution to the medical equipment and his devoted support
Jean-Michel Vigny, a friend from the North Pole, for the loan of video-camera batteries, the lamp and the solar panel
Jean-Claude and Sylvana Taburiaux (Autres Regards) for the introduction to the nuns of Cullican near Rizong and Leh
Jon Kent for his enthusiasm and energy, and the Clearstream Charity Committee, for the fundraising for the construction of the boarding school in Leh
Duncan Gatley for his precious help in the continuous translation of this website into English
the Starpole team for its logistical support
Matthias Huber from Olizane Editions and Abram Pointet for the use of their map Ladakh-Zanskar CENTRE (Leh-Padum-Pangong) to 1/150000 used during our daily follow up
11, rue des Vieux-Grenadiers
1205 Genève (Switzerland) Tél. 00 41 22 328 52 52
Fax 00 41 22 328 57 96
Stanzin Lakpa for the organisation and the logistics on-site in Ladakh
Maryem and Camille Clémens from Grenoble for all the information they gave us on this expedition
The Tibetan Development Foundation (TDF) team
Véronique Schindeler for the pictures and information
The pupils of the school in Fraiture (Belgium) and their teacher Séverine for their generosity and their enthusiasm to learn and to communicate with the pupils in Lingshed
All the people who gave books, pens and warm clothes for the children
Michel Dernies, François Zaleski, Christophe Raylat, Willy Schittekkatte, Annick Couppez, Fanny Guillaume, Tony Bruls and Brigitte
And to all the people who have supported us in one way or another.
« Today, more than ever before, life must be characterized by a sense of Universal responsibility, not only nation to nation and human to human, but also human to other forms of life.»
Dalaï Lama
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Ladakh has a distinct alpine floral and faunal variety...Read more...
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DAY 13 - Monday 07 February
DEEPYOKMA – TILAT-SUMDO.
This is certainly the hardest day of the trip.
The pictures at the beginning of the website prove it.
Just after starting this morning, I hear Thierry shouting behind me.
When I look, he has gone through the ice up to the knees.
When he picks up my stick… « CRAC » ….he falls through up to the waist.
I slip, but he managed to get out and we are lying on the ice.…
A bit later, on a safe spot on the side of the river, the porters make a fire to dry Thierry's clothes.
The conditions are more and more difficult and the climbing on the rock face is becoming dangerous.
At one point I see the leading group with Isabelle and Thibaut coming back!
There is a portion of about one kilometer with water up to the waist!
No climbing is possible. We have to find another way on the other side of the river. We climb on a vertical rock then on a mixture of sand and mud which is not stable at all. We are not very confident....but very happy to have taken a rope with us.
Finally, we are all safe but we have lost a lot of time today.
The sun has long-past set, it is snowing heavily and we arrive at the camp Tilat-Sumdo in the dark of the night.
In the tent, Dorjay is drying his feet near the gas stove (pic 138).
« When we face problems with compassion , sincerity, and good motivation, our solutions may take longer, but ultimately they are better. »
Dalaï Lama
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Ladakh is Buddhist (also called «Little Tibet») and Muslim...Read More...
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DAY 14 - Tuesday 08 February
TILAT-SUMDO – Chilling
We leave early, around 8h30. The snow has been falling all night and all trace of our footsteps have disappeared (pic 139) .
We know we will be in Chilling around lunch time, so I have time to take a few more pictures of our porters. They impressed us by their strength and their kindness (pics 140 to 143) .
The most tiring thing is the stress at each step.
We have to keep concentrated to avoid being surprised by the thin ice.
Thierry goes once more through the ice - with his rubber boots on this time.
He holds the record of falls on the ice, followed by Roland!
Lakpa has come to pick us up in Chilling.
Before leaving we distribute the clothes, rugsacks, shoes and material that we are giving to the porters.
The box we had sent by post to Lakpa before the trek arrived ok (pic 144) .
We distribute the tips to the guide, cooks and porters.
The adventure is finishing here, hoping we will see each other again one day…in SUMMER! !
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H.H. THE D ALAÏ LAMA...read More...
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From Wednesday 09 to 15 February
Leh - Leh
Back in Leh we are blocked for 5 days because of the weather.
Our daily walk, was to go to the airport every morning, then wait until the announcement of the cancellation of the flight, after listening to numerous rumours… Sometimes the plane was cancelled because of the snow on the runway, sometimes it was because of the clouds, sometime because it was too late in the afternoon…then one day, even though the clouds were there, we take off anyway!
After a while we changed hotel, and we went to Omasilla.
The welcome was really friendly and the food was good.
This is the hotel where Nicolas Hulot stayed during the filming of an Ushuaïa Nature program. www.omasila.com
Last picture after a meal with our guide Dorjay and his wife (pic 145).
« Happiness is not something ready made. It comes from your own actions. »
Dalaï Lama
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